Rapid Fire Gear Lite help please

[crisdo98]

Hi there,
I'm trying to install a Rapid fire lite into a V2 controller... install went sweet and really happy with it.

All buttons work as they should except both RT and LT? They don't respond at all.

I've checked all the wiring with a multi-meter and for the life of me I don't know what's up.

On the flexicable near where it says VCC there is 2 solder pads... should these be bridged?

Also I noticed on the clip where the flexi cable plugs into that pin 10 and 11 appear to be bridged.. is this how it should be? The soldering on the clip looks quite poor and I'm almost gonna blame this for the issue unless someone can provide any suggestions.

More then happy to put up some pics

[TeamXCM]

Those points you described are suppose to be how they are, don't mess with them at all. It sounds like possibilly you have the triggers grounded on accident. I did that on one that i attempted to install by making the solder point too high. Also be sure to check to make sure you didn't cut the trace next to the ones for the triggers, as that can also cause it not to work. If you did you'll need to repair those traces to get it functioning again. Let me know if any of this helps.

[bluelight360]

You mention not to cut the traces by the trigger but the instructions say you are supposed to cut the traces. I folowed the instructions online to the T and I have been through 3 controllers. First one the right trigger didnt work, second the left, and the 3rd neither trigger. I think your instructions are very vague and leave alot to be desired. I decided to try a V1 controller, again following the instructions to the T and now the controller wot even power up.
I'd like to know how others are following the instructions with no problem yet I have so many. I am not new to soldering or working inside controllers and have already done several controller mods.

[TeamXCM]

As stated in the thread that has many helpful tips on installing this case, you may need to use a microscope to see the traces to be sure they are cut properly and that the one next to it is not cut. There is also a pic of the most troubling trace which is next to the capacitor for the right trigger where it ties into the yellow wafer pcb. Imo that trace is the hardest and takes alot of patience to get right. Many people have successfully installed these cases so it can be done, but it is not easy and does take alot of time to perform. If you are not good at troubleshooting then this mod is not for you, but if you can troubleshoot and can get access to the right tools, then this mod is definately doable. It might very well be the hardest mod i've ever had to install personally, but the end result is second to none. It is by far the cleanest and best functioning rapid fire mod on the market to date. If you cannot install the mod with the triggers we suggest using the easy install instructions as only 3 connection are needed for the face buttons to function (A,B,X,Y). But if you are confident in going further then you do so at your own risk.

[bluelight360]

Originally Posted by TeamXCM

As stated in the thread that has many helpful tips on installing this case, you may need to use a microscope to see the traces to be sure they are cut properly and that the one next to it is not cut. There is also a pic of the most troubling trace which is next to the capacitor for the right trigger where it ties into the yellow wafer pcb. Imo that trace is the hardest and takes alot of patience to get right. Many people have successfully installed these cases so it can be done, but it is not easy and does take alot of time to perform. If you are not good at troubleshooting then this mod is not for you, but if you can troubleshoot and can get access to the right tools, then this mod is definately doable. It might very well be the hardest mod i've ever had to install personally, but the end result is second to none. It is by far the cleanest and best functioning rapid fire mod on the market to date. If you cannot install the mod with the triggers we suggest using the easy install instructions as only 3 connection are needed for the face buttons to function (A,B,X,Y). But if you are confident in going further then you do so at your own risk.

I'm sorry, did you say MICROSCOPE?

[bluelight360]

Ok, what about a clean install in an old board that powered on just fine until the PCB was added, and now it wont power on.

[TeamXCM]

Yes a microscope, i know it sounds funny, but thats the only way i could see the points well enough to make sure the correct ones were severed and the ones that weren't suppose to be were still completely intact. I recommend a 50x-100x microscope. You can find little cheap ones at radio shack for about $10-15.

If you installed it on another controller and now it won't power up at all its because the +5v is touching ground. The crosshatch on the entire top of the pcb is grounded, so if you accidentially scraped some enamel off that as well as the +5v point and soldered a wire that bridged them then the voltage is not getting to the controller. Trust me, i've done it. The plus side is if you follow the trace to the backside of the controller there is an easier point to solder to that won't be affected by ground as you don't have to scrape the point (depending on the version of controller pcb). Even if you do have to scrape enamel the trace on the back is not next to any others so its really easy to tap into that point for +5v. I've done several of these myself and have run into all sorts of different problems. With a little trial and error and using the knowledge i have on how electronic circuits work, i've been able to troubleshoot every situation i've come to. Really its not that hard, you just need to step back, take a deep breath and think about it for a minute, and then it'll come to you. This mod is as simple as providing power and ground to get it to work, everything is splicing into the connections to make the different buttons work (triggers, bumpers, etc).

[TeamXCM]

Also i have excellent vision, i don't use glasses and the last time i had an eye test it was 20/20, but i still needed a microscope to be 100% sure of the things i mentioned above. Trust me a microscope will go along way in this install and is probably the single most important tool next to a soldering iron, solder and exacto knife

[bluelight360]

I am not sure exactly where you are talking about with the 5V and ground, but I removed the board and it powers up fine, problem is, 2 points are now bad because the ring came up even though I am using a low heat low wattage iron. The most disturbing part is that I am learning so many things now including the microscope thing, that clearly should have all been included in the instructions. Better pictures, and more details would have been appreciated in the instructions as well as in your thread attempting to help.

[bluelight360]

Ok, old pc board, not new. The one mentioned above that did not power up on install. Removed the RFGL pcb and the board powered up fine. Reinstalled everything except the LTI, LTO, and the 2 spots on the back by the triggers that you have to solder together. Board still powered up. Installed LTI, LTO and the to spots and no power. This is crazy!